How to Wash Sneakers in a Washing Machine Without Wrecking Them — or Your Washer

By Virginia Viadas
Short answer: Most canvas, mesh and synthetic sneakers can go in a washing machine safely if you use cold water, a delicate cycle, the lowest available spin speed, a padded wash bag, and air drying. Leather, suede, and shoes with glued-on embellishments should never go in. The two things that ruin shoes in the wash are heat and unrestrained tumbling — not water.
Machine washing sneakers has a bad reputation, and part of it is deserved. Shoes are dense, unevenly weighted objects, and a pair of size-11 running shoes hitting a stainless drum at 800 rpm delivers exactly the kind of impact that dents drums and loosens bearings. But the failures are predictable, which means they are preventable.

Which shoes can actually go in
| Material | Machine washable? | Notes | Reference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Canvas (Converse, Vans-style) | Yes | Most durable in the wash; expect some softening over time | Converse care guidance |
| Synthetic mesh / knit (running shoes) | Yes, with care | Cold water only; adhesives soften with heat | Nike care guidance |
| Leather and patent leather | No | Water strips oils; leather stiffens and cracks as it dries | Leather Working Group care recommendations |
| Suede and nubuck | No | Nap mats permanently; use a suede brush and eraser | Nike care guidance |
| Shoes with glued sequins, gems or logo patches | No | Adhesives fail before the fabric does | Manufacturer care labels |
| Waterproof membrane shoes (GORE-TEX and similar) | Hand clean preferred | Detergent residue can reduce breathability | GORE-TEX care instructions |
When the care label and the internet disagree, follow the label. Manufacturers write those instructions because they know which adhesive they used.
The five-minute prep that decides the outcome
- Remove laces and insoles. Both wash better separately, and insoles left inside stay wet for days. Laces go in a small mesh bag or a knotted pillowcase so they don't wrap around the agitator.
- Knock off the loose dirt outdoors. Bang the soles together and use a dry brush on the outsole tread. Mud that goes into the machine ends up in the drain pump, not down the drain.
- Pre-treat the stains you actually care about. A soft brush, a drop of liquid detergent and a few minutes of dwell time will do more than any wash cycle. The American Cleaning Institute's general stain guidance applies here: treat before washing, never after drying.
- Check the outsole seam. If the sole is already lifting at the toe, water and tumbling will finish the job. That pair needs glue, not a wash cycle.
- Bag the shoes with padding. A padded bag such as the Luxear Shoe Wash Bags for Washing Machine, 20,000+ 3cm Long Fibers, 4 High-Density Chenille Shoe Forms does two jobs at once: it cushions the impact against the drum and it keeps the upper from folding in half, which is what causes those permanent creases across the toe box.
Machine settings, in plain terms
| Setting | Use this | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Water temperature | Cold (max 30 °C / 86 °F) | Heat softens the adhesives holding sole to upper; it also sets protein and dye stains |
| Cycle | Delicate / hand wash | Shorter agitation, gentler drum reversal |
| Spin speed | Lowest available, or spin off | High spin is the main cause of drum impact damage |
| Detergent | Liquid, small dose | Powder can leave white residue in mesh and stitching |
| Load | Shoes plus 2–3 old towels | Towels balance the load and absorb impact |
| Bleach / softener | Neither | Bleach yellows synthetic white midsoles; softener leaves a film that attracts dirt |
Front-loading machines are gentler on shoes than top-loaders with a central agitator. If your machine has an agitator post, a padded bag like the Luxear Shoe Wash Bags with Chenille Shoe Forms stops being optional — the post makes contact with the shoes on every rotation.
Drying is where most pairs actually die
The dryer is more destructive than the washer. Tumble heat is what warps midsole foam, shrinks knit uppers and separates soles. Air dry instead:
- Stuff each shoe with plain white paper towels or newsprint-free paper to hold its shape and pull moisture outward. Change the paper after the first two hours.
- Dry indoors, out of direct sun. UV yellows white rubber midsoles and fades dyed canvas.
- Point a fan at them if you're in a hurry. A room fan cuts drying time roughly in half compared with still air.
- Expect 12 to 24 hours depending on humidity. Insoles usually need longer than the shoes.
Putting damp shoes back on is how the smell starts. The odor is bacterial, and moisture is the fuel.
When to stop and hand clean instead
Stop if the outsole flexes away from the upper, if the shoe has visible glue lines, if the care label says spot clean only, or if the pair is expensive enough that replacing it would hurt. Hand cleaning a canvas sneaker with a soft brush and diluted detergent takes about fifteen minutes and carries almost no risk.
Frequently asked questions
How often can I machine wash sneakers?
Roughly once a month for shoes in regular rotation. Each cycle costs a little adhesive strength and a little foam resilience; monthly is a reasonable trade, weekly is not.
Can I wash two pairs at the same time?
Yes, if each pair goes in its own bag and the drum isn't more than about half full. Overloading defeats the balancing effect of the towels.
Do wash bags really protect the machine, or is that marketing?
Padded bags measurably reduce impact noise and cushion the contact between shoe and drum. A thin mesh bag does not — it only keeps laces and small parts contained. The functional difference comes down to padding density and whether internal forms are included, which is what distinguishes products like the Luxear Shoe Wash Bags with 4 Chenille Shoe Forms from basic mesh.
My white midsoles turned yellow after washing. Why?
Two common causes: chlorine bleach reacting with the rubber, or drying in direct sunlight. Both oxidize the material. A magic-eraser-type melamine sponge removes light yellowing from the rubber itself, but not from fabric.
Can I put shoes in the dryer on the no-heat setting?
Air-fluff with no heat is survivable but still tumbles the shoes against the drum. Rack-drying attachments, if your dryer has one, are the safe version.